WANDER
With its gabled rooftops, spires, and painted façades, Lucerne’s Old Town is film-set gorgeous. Climb the mediaeval Musegg Wall, then cross the Kapellbrücke, a 14th-century wooden bridge across the River Reuss. In need of a quick pick-me-up? Head to Max Chocolatier for crafted coffees and tiny handmade plättli (chocolate squares).
LISTEN
KKL Luzern, the city’s concert hall, is a standout: a lakeside landmark designed by Jean Nouvel, with a vast cantilevered roof. Symphonies sound spectacular in its salle blanche, whose acoustics are second to none. Regulars swear you can sometimes hear the swish of the conductor’s baton.
SIP
Mandarin Oriental Palace, Luzern, afternoon tea is an elegant affair, with front-row lake and mountain vistas. Every detail is exactly as it should be, from the freshly baked scones, the traditional sandwiches with local specialities to the seasonal patisserie and the finest selection of teas.
DISCOVER
The city’s most celebrated statue? The melancholy Lion of Lucerne, dying from a fatal spear wound. Carved in 1820, it commemorates the Swiss Guards who died during the French Revolution. Seen as propaganda by some, it’s still hard to resist “the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world,” as declared by Mark Twain.