LISTEN
The handsome, historic Teatro Real has moved with the times, not least with its elaborate, speed-change sets. Opera tickets always sell fast, so book well in advance, or ask the hotel to arrange an exclusive behind-the-scenes tour.
WANDER
A former hunting estate for the nearby Palacio Real, the Casa de Campo is now a vast area of parkland. Its attractions include a zoo, a funfair and two open-air, summer-only outdoor pools, along with a cable car that swoops over the treetops to Parque del Oeste.
EXPLORE
Take a 45-minute train ride out to the elegant little town of Aranjuez and its famous Bourbon palace. Originally built as a hunting lodge for Charles I in the 16th century, it was later extended in Baroque and classical styles. The gardens are magnificent, with their cherub-topped fountains, tree-lined paths and Chinese pond.
TASTE
The menu at TriCiclo is a masterclass in seasonal dining, rooted – but never bound by – Spanish tradition. (Think lime-spiked wild sea bass ceviche, say, or quail’s egg-topped steak tartare.) Dishes, rather brilliantly, come in three sizes, allowing guests to mastermind their own tasting menus.