See historic Madrid come to life
To explore the oldest part of the city, Madrid de los Austrias, start at Plaza Mayor: a 400-year-old arcaded square, framed by spire-topped, red-brick buildings. Next, head to the adjacent Mercado de San Miguel, a handsome food market, in situ since 1916.
Pick up some slivers of Ibérico ham and a glass of a Madrilenian vermouth, then claim one of the stand-up tables around the market’s edge. Afterwards, stroll to Plaza de la Villa, the city’s most important square in medieval times, for dinner at Casa Ciriaco. It’s one of the city’s most traditional restaurants, and one of the few places you’ll find gallina en pepitoria – a comforting chicken stew, in a rich, saffron-spiked sauce.