What sommeliers drink

By Sarah Jappy

August 25, 2023

Four Mandarin Oriental sommeliers share their expert opinions on good wine, from legendary vintages to bold new wine-making talents

The best sommeliers are extraordinary: connoisseurs with a deep knowledge of wine and a flair for storytelling, who instinctively know exactly which bottle to summon from the cellar. From the rarest of Champagnes to the lesser-known grapes and winemakers to watch, we asked four Mandarin Oriental sommeliers for their insider recommendations.

The sommelier pouring a glass of wine in the gardens of Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London

Ana Suárez, Assistant Director of Wine at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London

In Ana Suárez’s view, a great sommelier possesses two key qualities – humility and curiosity. “You need humility to understand that guests’ likes and needs come first, and curiosity to discover the vast world of wine, and never stop learning,” she explains. As an excellent exemplar of British wine, she recommends a glass of Blanc de Noirs from Roebuck Estates’ South Downs vineyards – notable for its complexity, depth and notes of honeyed fruits. Very different, but equally remarkable, is Emilio Hidalgo’s El Tresillo 1874 Amontillado Viejo. “Sherry is such a fascinating region: it’s so underrated, and was on the verge of extinction,” says Ana. “This is an incredibly complex wine, to be drunk and savoured slowly.” For a bottle of something rare, meanwhile, she’d choose Krug Clos d’Ambonnay 1998. The result of an exceptional harvest from a tiny, walled plot of Pinot Noir, “It shows Champagne can be the main wine of a meal, not just an aperitif.”

Sommelier Dirk Chen selecting a wine from the wine cellar at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong

Dirk Chen, Director of Wine at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong

Back when he was a junior sommelier, tasting a 1961 Château Latour sparked a career-long passion for Dirk Chen. “It’s a wine that blows my mind,” he says. “After almost 60 years of cellaring, it’s beautifully fresh, yet develops so much complexity it’s impossible to describe.” These days, Dirk presides over the cellars at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, whose contents run from iconic Dom Pérignon Champagnes to some intriguing Chinese wines. “Regions such as Ningxia have tremendous potential to produce some of the best wines in the world,” says Dirk. “We have Silver Heights on our list, which is one of the top wineries.”

When it comes to rarities, he singles out a 2019 Bourgogne Aligoté, produced in limited quantities by the terroir-focused Nicolas Faure, who is “a unique talent” in Dirk’s eyes. His other pick is a 2002 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes. “It’s a legendary wine – and the double-magnum format means it only gets better, aging beautifully over decades,” he concludes.

Verdant vineyards in Franciacorta, Italy at sunset

Andrea Loi, Head Sommelier at Mandarin Oriental, Milan

For Andrea Loi, the chess-playing head sommelier at Mandarin Oriental, Milan, wine isn’t about grapes, it’s about people. “I don’t consider myself a wine sommelier, but rather, a connoisseur of those who make wine,” he says. Asked about Italy’s great wines, he’s reluctant to single out favourites (“It’s almost a sacrilege!”). But, when pressed, he is lyrical in his praise of Montalcino, Barolo and Barbaresco. Terlano, too, is close to his heart: “This small village in the South Tyrol is one of the greatest places in the world for white wine production. The finest have the ability to age over a long period, which is very rare for a white wine.” He also urges guests to visit nearby Franciacorta, famed for its sparkling wines. “We work with all kinds of producers there, from the smallest to the most famous,” he says. “Frankly, it’s hard to go wrong. Wherever you head, you’ll find a hospitable welcome.”

A bottle of Mandarin Oriental’s Carménère and white wines at Mandarin Oriental, Santiago

Sergio Quiroz, Sommelier at Mandarin Oriental, Santiago

What’s wonderful about Chile, says sommelier Sergio Quiroz, is its infinite variety, with so many different soils, micro-climates and grapes. “There’s potential for any variety to thrive here, and it’s wonderful to taste them and find out how they behave in our soils,” he says. When it comes to Chilean winemakers, he singles out Marcelo Retamal: a hugely influential figure and champion of terruño. The wines from his most recent project, RETA, are not to be missed, says Sergio – not least the flinty Quebrada Seca Chardonnay, with grapes grown in the Limarí Valley. For a celebration, meanwhile, he advocates a glass of the hotel’s “beautiful” signature brut. Made with 100 per cent Pinot Noir, with six months’ contact with the yeast, it’s a collaboration with the talented Eduardo Jordán of Viña Miguel Torres. His Manso de Velasco is another of Sergio’s all-time favourite wines: “It’s a Cabernet Sauvignon from the Curicó Valley with real character and structure, from vines that are over a century old.”

Three wine experiences for aficionados

Sip Champagne in Madrid

When it comes to gilded glamour, nowhere shines more than the eight-seat Champagne Bar at Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid. Second-to-none Champagnes are paired with decadent bocados (small bites): think sea urchin béarnaise, caviar-topped oysters and acorn-fed Iberian ham.

Unlock one of Paris’s finest cellars

Explore the fabled wine cellars at Mandarin Oriental, Paris with the most expert of guides: Head Sommelier David Biraud. It’s a chance to get the inside story on some of the extraordinary wines served at the two-starred Sur Mesure par Thierry Marx, including a seductive Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Arioso’.

Sail to Barcelona’s vineyards

Just northeast of Barcelona, Alella produces bold reds and crisp, floral whites – some showcasing the Pansa Blanca grape, native to this tiny wine region. Hop on a yacht from Port Olimpic, on a four-hour trip to an organic winery arranged by the concierge at Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona.

All offers and experiences available at time of publication. Please contact the hotel team for more information.

About the Author

Sarah Jappy

Sarah writes about hotels and travel for British Airways’ High Life, Mr & Mrs Smith, Lodestars Anthology and others.